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Tuesday, August 29, 2006 

Dana's Czech Republic Roots


Since we've decided to leave, I've learned that when planning a trip of this magnitude, everyone you know seems to get excited for you. In the few months leading up to our departure, Dana & I heard "I'm so jealous" more than we care to admit. I think this is because either (a) we have nice friends and family who won't say "You're Insane! What The F**k Are You Doing??" to our faces or (b) somewhere deep down, EVERYONE harbors dreams of traveling abroad to far-off lands. Either way, I know from personal experience, the mere fact that someone else you know is quitting their job and leaving everything behind to just "go" is inspiring (thanks Pell). If that guy can do it, you can do it too -- even if only for a little while. Of course, in this whole planning process, I've also learned that when you leave on a trip of this magnitude, you're scared as hell and you want to plan on seeing as many friendly faces along the way as you can. So I'm not sure if our long trip was their inspiration or if they finally just gave in to our begging, but in early August, Dana's family came out to Prague to meet us. It was good to see familiar faces. If only to ride the subway with.


Of course, there was more reasons than just us for Dana's mom and sister to come to Prague. Dana's dad defected from Czechoslovakia in the mid 1960s (right in the heart of the Communist era) so his family is still there. Morgan and Archer had also come to see Otto, their uncle and brother-in-law, as well as a whole bunch more of their family. (On the left in the held photo is Dana's dad. He couldn't make the trip for various reasons but he was with us in spirit.)


It was an exciting time. Dana and her sister were back in their half-homeland for the first time in 10 years, when they were backpacking across Europe.


Of course, this time they had some very handsome men tagging along. What a difference ten years makes. Finding men this attractive ain't easy.


As soon as Morgan, Reimer and Archer had arrived, we had a large dinner together with all the family. Their cousin Jana (in stripes) cooked a magnificent feast for us to enjoy. Delicious! Not only that, but she was also letting us stay in her wonderful "Penzion Louda" with its amazing views of the city of Prague. Thanks Jana! The couple on the left is another cousin, Fred, and his wife. They and Jana both spoke good English so the conversation (with translations for Otto) was flowing.


After such a good meal, all we could do was curl up and go to sleep. (the fact that the other three had just flown from Florida didn't hurt either). The next morning, we rose early, had a wonderful breakfast cooked by Jana and then headed out to see all the sights of Prague. Like Prague Castle on the hill behind us.


And Charles Bridge (which was quite nice to look at while we dined in elegance with Czech beers).


During the day, we saw the whole city with little or no problems, save the occasional almost-falling-over-the-castle-wall mishap.


Though almost all of us had been there before, it was easy to appreciate the beauty of Prague.


Just as it is easy to appreciate the beauty of our two ladies and their lovely mother...


After the sightseeing, it was time to eat again. We dined on traditonal Czech favorites, like spit-roasted pigs knuckle. Yummy. We also had beer. Beer in Prague is cheaper than bottled water. Such a great excuse to have more.


After dinner, Reimer and I were blessed with wonderful gifts from our lovely girlfriends -- Russian-style nesting dolls of our favorite NFL football teams.


It goes without saying we loved them. I mean who wouldn't?!? They were NFL NESTING DOLLS. Are you ready for some foootball!


We stopped in another small Czech pub for some more drinks and toasted to Prague and family.


Then we played with our world-champion Pittsburgh Steeler nesting dolls while making our best Bill Cowher face.


Finally, I topped off the night by downing a little absinthe, the green liquor Prague is famous for. Banned in the US and Europe back in 1915, it's hard to experience its ridiculously strong and potent green flavor anywhere but Prague. It was blamed for having psychotrophic properties (from the wormwood it was distilled from) but many artists and writers during the late 19th and early 20th centuries were noted absinthe drinkers. If this stuff was the choice of guys like Vincent van Gogh, I was going to give it a try. Well, now I know why he cut his ear off. It was definitely quite nasty -- like licorice fermented in rubbing alcohol. But I did feel tough. If only because Hemingway drank it. He liked some Pernod as an apertif. Too bad I never got to see a bullfight in Spain...


The next day, the whole gang headed out to Malin, a small town outside Prague near Kutna Hora. This was where Dana's dad was originally from and we went to visit his family home, now lived in by Lenka, their cousin, and her husband Libor and their son Jakub. It was a short visit by a good one.


Afterwards, Otto picked us up and took us to a traditional Czech lunch of dumplings, pork and cabbage. It was delicious. Then he drove us out to the family's old vacation home somewhere far far from Kutna Hora. Then we came back to visit the Kostnice Ossuary right near Kutna Hora in Sedlec. Also known as the Bone Church for obvious reasons, it was originally was a Cistercian Monastery dating back to 1142 . The arrangement of bones dates from 1870 and is the work of a Czech wood-carver, FrantiĊĦek Rint. He was given authority to mess around with the bones by the new owners of the place after it ceased to be a church. There's supposed to be the bones of 40,000 people in there. Legend has it that Dana's dad once took a skull from this place, but he had such bad luck and was wracked with such guilt that he returned it soon after. We had to see it to confirm. There was no evidence of a stolen skull however. Just some coat of arms made from bones. Spooky.


After the bone church, we headed over to Otto's favorite bar for some traditional Czech drinks -- vodka and beer. Thouroughly sauced, we headed back to Otto's house for tea and coffee. By this time, we felt just like locals. Thanks for everything Otto!


Finally it was time to bid Otto adieu. We headed back to Penzion Louda for one late night (and then one more splendid breakfast by Jana!) before traveling on. Reimer & Morgan were bound for Italy, while the rest of us were off to Austria to see the place where Dana's parents met, Lech. After all that planning, it felt like our time in Czech Republic was over in the blink of an eye. But we'll remember it for a long time. On to Austria!

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    "I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move, to feel the needs and hitches of our life more nearly; to come down off this feather-bed of civilization, and find the globe granite underfoot..."

    -- Robert Louis Stevenson

    "The mere animal pleasure of traveling in a wild unexplored country is very great...the effect of travel on a man whose heart is in the right place is that the mind is made more self-reliant; it becomes more confident of its own resources."

    -- David Livingstone

    "The proper function of man is to live, not to exist. I shall not waste my days trying to prolong them. I shall use my time."

    -- Jack London

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